The Monts du Cantal

The rugged, volcanic heart of the Auvergne is home to some of the finest touring country in all France, and on some of the least-travelled roads. Journey with us to the high country.

Here's another truly uplifting journey to contemplate while waiting for the return of warmer days. Once again we hit the heights in spectacular fashion, but there's nothing particularly scary involved, and there are plenty of safe stopping places along the way to take in the incomparable views. If you're not familiar with the highly distinctive landscapes of the Auvergne then you have an extra treat in store, while for those who have already experienced a little of what the area has to offer, here is the overview to finally put it all into perspective. But be warned: our route is open to near-infinite variation, and if you do it once I guarantee you'll be drawn back again and again to expand your experiences.

Our departure point couldn't be easier to locate, or get off to a more tempting start. We begin on the A75 autoroute on the way up to (or, if you prefer, down from) Clermont-Ferrand, looking out for the sign to le Viaduc de Garabit, which you will locate 12km south of St-Flour. For regular travellers on this route who have repeatedly glimpsed Gustave Eiffel's spectacular railway viaduct and resolved to stop one day for a closer look, I am now pleased to provide the perfect excuse to do so. Follow the N9 then the D926 (signed to St-Flour) and after crossing the river Truyère on the D909, take the D13 or follow the twisting route which rises under the viaduct itself for a choice of views from either direction, the decision being influenced by the position of the sun. Seen at close quarters it's an awe-inspiring site, whose sheer scale becomes particularly apparent when workmen are aloft carrying out maintenance.

Return to the D909 Circuit des Monts du Cantal route up the hill, between unspoilt pastures and the autoroute then follow the signs to St-Flour. The town itself looks (and is) remarkable, perched on its lofty plateau overlooking the roundabout where we join the D921 signed to the town centre. The ascent of the volcanic rock ramparts adds to the drama, and you might wish to stop at the top to satisfy your curiosity. Otherwise, continue on the D679 Talizat road which immediately descends into beautiful open countryside of forest and pastures. Big stone farmhouses and even bigger barns hint at past prosperity, or at least large-scale farming. Talizat turns out to be predominantly built from black stone - a style to which you'll soon grow accustomed. Be aware when passing through that you have no priority, so be prepared to give way to vehicles coming from your right. Soon there's a sudden change of scenery, on the descent to a broad, sheltered valley floor. At Neussargues-Moissac cross the railway line and turn left at the major road junction onto the N122 and continue to Murat, an historic town at whose heart lie narrow streets lined with 15th and 16th Century houses and shops of dark grey volcanic stone. In the interior of the 15th Century Notre-Dame-des-Oliviers you'll discover one of the Auvergne's mysterious Black Virgins.

On leaving the town on the N122, look out for the D3 (initially indicated D680 on the Michelin map) which peels off towards Puy Mary. Signs also provide useful advance indications for winter travellers as to whether the Cols (high passes) ahead are open or closed, for exciting stuff lies ahead. Salers, a justifiable popular destination for visitors, is also signed here.

Just after the Col d'Entremont (1210m) turn left to follow the D680 Route des Crêtes on the wooded descent into another valley, past the rugged little village of le Peuch and through Dienne. The views on the run up to the Col d'Eylac (1460m) are themselves pretty uplifting - at the top there's car parking, a refreshment bar and a selection of marked walks. The run down from here, still on the D680, is fantastic, with a series of hairpin bends high above the broad valleys of the Cirque du Falgoux. After crossing a series of bridges we enter beautiful woodland on a narrow road with passing places - garages de croisement - every 300m. At the road junction which follows stay on the D680, emerging from the forest at the Col de Neronne (1242m). If the weather is fine continue on the Route de Crêtes to Salers. If not (as was the case for me) take the D37 left turn for the lower, more sheltered route along the Lesmarronies valley, through the free-ranging chickens of several traditional hamlets and the equally unspoilt village of St Paul des Salers. The D37 now continues along the valley, crosses a small bridge and meets a road junction. At this point you have the option of taking the left-hand route to Aurillac, or turning sharp right for the run up to Salers, officially classed as one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France. The D35 passes a convincingly elaborate château built from dark local stone before turning hard left and climbing steeply behind it on the winding, wooded ascent to Salers. The village is an obvious stopping point, being one of the few unchanged Renaissance villages in the Auvergne. Offering superb views from its 15th Century ramparts, it's a very popular place in summer, so try if you can to see it in the quieter season.

The route now turns right and passes through the village car park and then left onto the Route des Crêtes again - cross the road junction ahead and continue on the D680, signed to Aurillac. At the junction with the D922 turn right, heading north to complete the route to Aurillac, or if you're game for more you can launch straight into the Route des Fromages for another kind of exploration. In getting this far you'll have passed through just some of the high pastures grazed by the local Salers cattle, who are renowned not only for their rich burnt sienna colouring, but the milk which yields the famous Cantal cheeses. A considerable delicacy in its own right, the cheese is also a key ingredient, along with potatoes and garlic, in a regional dish known as aligot. Another continuing tradition here is transhumance - the annual transfer of cattle from the rich summer pastures to their winter quarters in barns, and vice-versa as the seasons change.

So, all you've heard about the high country of the Auvergne remains as true as ever, and if from time to time the sonorous echo of the cow-bells might stretch credibility to the limit, you'll simply have to force yourself to believe it's really happening. And if that doesn't work, you'll have no alternative but to return at the earliest opportunity to convince yourself that anywhere really is this beautiful.

© Words and pictures Roger Moss
This feature first appeared in everything France magazine Issue 5

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