Visitor Information
When to come: A southern location brings a privileged climate throughout the seasons, but high altitudes can add a considerable windchill factor, particularly at times when the mistral blows. Summers can be hot, but the route includes plenty of shade and altitude. Spring and autumn are a delight, and June can be a revelation - you may hardly see a soul.
Find out more:
www.nyons.com
www.buislesbaronnies.com
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The Route de l'Olivier
Whatever the season, the olive tree looks as noble as ever among the rugged landscapes of Northern Provence. But there's more, as we're about to discover...
There have no doubt been Olive Routes of some kind
for as long as man has cultivated the trees. which adds up to a very long
time indeed. Our own grand tour on this theme takes us through the hills,
valleys and gorges of the Drôme Provençale (plus a tiny section
which falls within the neighbouring Vaucluse). Along the way we'll also be
passing through some of the finest lavender country to be found anywhere.
To see it looking at its very best, of course, would mean coming, like everyone
else, in the hot months of high summer. But we have other ideas. The olive
trees have a charm of their own and will always be there for you whenever
you choose to come (and long afterwards). In early spring you'll also have
wild cherry blossom, while autumn turns the vines and deciduous trees to
fiery gold. The route is also a circular itinerary, so you can, if you prefer,
select you own starting point. But there's a rationale behind ours which
will soon become clear.
Finally, don't assume that we'll be merely heading
off on a gentle cruise among the sleepy landscapes of Provence (you won't
need me to help you find any number of those). There's a great deal more
to the region than is commonly appreciated, yet still the myths persist.
By the end of this journey I guarantee that you'll never think of Provence
in quite the same way again. So, if you're ready for some serious driving
among some truly breathtaking scenery, off we go. Allow a full day to take
in the many stops you'll be tempted to make along the way.
Our suggested point of departure lies a few kilometres from Vaison-la-Romaine, on the D538 at Mirabel-aux-Baronnies (if you've travelled down from Paris you'll find Mirabel some way east of the Bollène exit on the A7 or N7). From the occasionally busy road which passes by its lower reaches, the tightly-packed village gives little clue as to its inner character, but even its car park sports a noble line of olive trees. It's a first intimation of what lies ahead, as are the broad views which follow as we head off towards Nyons (the 's' is pronounced). After crossing the River Gaude we turn right - signed D185 Chateauneuf de Bordec - and begin a gentle climb through green oaks, pines, etc., passing a small chapel. After cresting the hill, we're confronted with a broad landscape of vines and olive groves. The trees include many centenarians whose sturdy trunks are banked up with earth to protect their roots. A little further on we take the D185a to the left, for a winding climb up through cherry trees and more pines. At the summit is a small, shaded roadside parking spot, with views over terraced plantations plus the broad, fertile plains which lie ahead.
Nyons
- an important centre for olive oil production.
The route now descends through oaks and pines, among the very landscape we've just been enjoying, before re-joining the D538 for the run down towards Nyons. The route is marked by new signage proclaiming proudly the AOC status of the town's olive oil and black olives. It's also flanked on both sides by dense groves of mature olive trees, supporting the town's reputation as the area's most important centre of olive oil production. Nyons is also famed for its graceful 14/15th Century bridge which spans the now broad river in a daring single span. To see it at close hand, join the D94 (signed to Gap), which passes through a short tunnel punched through the rocks. When you emerge, take the (easily-missed) minor left-hand turning and you'll arrive at a small parking area beside the bridge itself, after which you can walk across and explore the heart of the old town, or stroll along the opposite riverbank.
Beyond Nyons, the road follows the winding course of the river Eygues as its valley gradually narrows and deepens, passing frequent roadside parking, plus a nursery specialising in Mediterranean trees and shrubs. Soon, though, the valley sides display the rugged, Badlands-style contours which are a highly distinctive feature of certain more remote parts of the Drôme, before mutating into a deep, shady gorge. Overlooking one particularly narrow point is a tiny village poised spectacularly on a slender spur of rock.
It's another essential stop. Saint-May's sole links to the outside world turns out to be a skeletal iron bridge and a narrow road rising steeply around the sides of the valley to a modest parking area. From up here it's possible to look down over the valley and up towards the mountainous peaks by which the spot is all but concealed. The village itself is a world apart, and seems virtually untouched by the forces of tourism (but then, as the descent back to the D94 underlines in no uncertain terms, you wouldn't attempt to get a coach up here).
Beyond Saint-May the road passes through a single-track tunnel reminiscent
of those which protect Alpine routes, although here the threat is from rock-falls,
rather than avalanches. Beyond lie more roadside parking areas, shortly after
which we'll be turning off to enjoy a total change of scenery on the D162,
signed to Bellecombe and the Col de Soubeyrand. This is a monster of an 8km
ascent, which winds its way relentlessly through a seemingly-endless series
of hairpin bends and gradually-thinning vegetation to the 994m Col. Once
over the top the scene changes dramatically once again, as we leave the north-facing
slopes behind in favour of a broad, southerly-oriented valley. Immediately
we're into lavender and fruit-growing terrain, with views which stretch as
far as Mont Ventoux.
From here it's also downhill, through the kind of surroundings
of which most people can only dream, and it falls to the village of Bellecombe to prove that some people actually live and work here, too. We continue down,
still on the D162, and eventually turn right onto the D64. Almost before
we know it, however, we leave it once again as the D162 appears on our left
across the River Ennuye on again, this time signed to Buis-les-Baronnies.
Now we're in the heart of lavender country, with sweeping views across the
purple plains filling another broad valley, as we make the gentle ascent
towards the Col de Ey (718m). There's a scenic parking spot at the Col, to
help you take it all in.
The left-hand fork ahead follows the D162 on its way down through another series of big views, on the far from gentle descent to Buis-les-Baronnies. It's grand touring par excellence, with sweeping hairpins and jaw-dropping scenery. Fortunately, a couple of parking spots on the way down allow you to pull over in safety and concentrate on the views.
The final run down into Buis plunges us into the vast silvery green sea of olive trees which surround the town, but not before we pass through one final section of rugged gorges. Buis is worth getting to know better, with a typically Provençal circular exterior. At its heart lies a mysterious network of narrow streets radiating from the showpiece Place des Arcades (officially classified as a 'Monument Historique'). All things considered, Buis makes an attractive stop-over point, and an ideal touring base for more detailed exploration of les Baronnies.
Beyond Buis the D5 (signed to Vaison-la-Romaine) follows the Ouvèze valley past such striking sights as the perched chapel of Pierrelongue, floating ethereally above the surrounding village, plus the medieval fortified village of Mollans-sur-Ouvèze. Vaison is now close at hand if you feel like a brief detour, but our route takes the D46 signed to Nyons. At the entry to Faucon, another prominent hilltop village, we turn right onto the minor D205, for a final taste of what we came for. It's both heartbreakingly beautiful and instantly peaceful, as olives vie with vines for your attention. Ahead, beyond the road junction, the shaded terrace of an auberge offers appreciative travellers the perfect excuse to linger among it all just a little longer.
From here it's but a short run down past Puymeras on the D46 to the D938 which will take us back to where we began. But all good things.
© Words and pictures Roger Moss
This feature first appeared in everything France magazine
Issue 12
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