Information

Wines produced by the Domaine Huet at Le Haut-Lieu are distributed by L'Echansonne,
11-13 rue de la Croix-Buisée,
B.P. 34,
37210 Vouvray.
Tel: 0033 (0)2 47 52 78 87 www.huet-echansonne.com

Getting there...

Vouvray is situated just east of Tours in the Loire Valley. By car it is easily accessible from the western Channel ports, or via the A10 from Paris.

Touraine Temptation

The great châteaux of the Loire Valley are adept at stealing the headlines, but for wine-lovers the local patrimony has other equally priceless treasures. We look at the legendary vineyards of Vouvray.

It could be argued that almost its entire length from the Massif Central to the Atlantic Coast actually constitutes The Loire Valley, but in most people's minds the name is synonymous with the stretch favoured by the Kings of France for their most extravagant architectural gestures. Yet there is another important quality which sets this region apart: the combination of fertile, alluvial soil and a temperate climate provide ideal conditions for forests, flowers, fruit and vegetables. Little wonder, then, that the Centre-Val-de-Loire is also known as the Garden of France.

But what of the regional wines? By now we're no strangers to the Loire, having previously visited both Sancerre and Muscadet. We make no apology for returning to the region, since its geographical spread, combined with renowned, yet relatively small AOC production areas, makes it a hugely rewarding hunting ground for those looking for something just a little different. This time we're in Vouvray, on the northern bank of the river, just a very few miles upstream from the prosperous city of Tours. The local vineyards are said to have been established by Saint Martin, Archbishop of Tours, when he founded the monastery of Marmoutier in 372AD. The Vouvray appellation is, however, more recent, having been defined in 1936, and comprises 1,800 hectares, with 300 estates in and around eight villages. Interestingly, like both Muscadet and Sancerre, the appellation is founded upon a single grape variety or cépage. In this case it's Chenin Blanc, known locally as simply Chenin, Pineau d'Anjou or Pineau de la Loire, and named, it is said, after Mont-Chenin (now Monchenain), which lies a little to the south of the rivers Loire and Cher.

In the right hands (and given a favourable season) Chenin Blanc is capable of achieving great things. One of the acknowledged masters is the Domaine Huet, founded in 1928 by the Huet family on an estate of several plots totalling 35 hectares. I've decided to pay them a visit to learn of their production methods and to taste some of their highly-respected classic Vouvray wines. Gaston Huet achieved a certain celebrity status in 1990, when his public protests against the threat of a new TGV line carving through the vineyards of Vouvray resulted in tunnels being cut at great expense deep beneath them instead. The great campaigner recently passed away (after a brief illness, at the age of 92), by which time the estate had long since passed into the capable hands of Monsieur Noël Pinguet, who greets me with a warm smile followed by an enthusiastic tour of the principal areas under cultivation. The most celebrated is the Clos du Bourg, 6 hectares of shallow clay and limestone soil on a solid limestone plateau just above the village church. Its clocher peeps over the ridge beyond the vines. An ancient, pale stone wall encloses the land, once the property of the Collegiate Church of St Martin-de-Tours.

The Vouvray Appellation typically has one of the latest vendanges in all France, yet the vines are already bearing their precious miniature fruit. Frost claimed the very earliest arrivals, but plenty remain intact, further threats now safely behind them. Location aside, one key factor which since 1990 has set the Clos du Bourg, Le Mont, Le Haut-Lieu and the estate's smaller plots aside from those of most other growers is Noël Pinguet's total commitment to bio-dynamic growing practices. This translates to a total ban on all chemical treatments, including pesticides, fungicides and herbicides. Instead, the growers maintain a constant vigilance in order to respond to the vines' slightest need. It's a labour-intensive approach, but with estate yields historically averaging little more than 35 hectolitres per hectare, it's a sacrifice they're willing to make. The most immediately obvious sign of this method during my visit is a perceptible hint of undergrowth between the vines, in marked contrast to the chemically-induced weed-free appearance which is the aim of most growers. Here the soil is banked up after grape-picking, then ploughed in spring to re-expose the base of the vines. Any removal of grass, etc. is effected by purely mechanical means. The point, of course, is that spraying pests also kills their natural predators, whereas a correctly-balanced natural eco-system has its own way of sorting out situations before they become problems. Finally, soil enrichment employs only estate-produced organic fertiliser, made from cattle manure and straw.

Having addressed the earthly environmental issues as thoroughly as possible, there remains the uncertainty of the Vouvray climate, whose mood swings can be unsettling. In April 1991, for example, a late frost knocked the yield down to a mere 4 hectolitres per hectare, while the following year produced a bumper 70. There are other, less obvious effects, too, most notably in the all-important sugar content of the grapes (for its still wines the Huet estate shuns chapitalisation, by which sugar is added during fermentation to compensate for any natural deficiencies). Daily assessment of the grapes' progress dictates the precise times of picking, by hand and in two or more stages, between 5th October and 10th November. Pressing, with the grapes still on the stems, is a similarly low-pressure affair, followed by fermentation in oak barrels or stainless-steel vats. The process uses only the yeasts naturally present within the grapes or the cellars. Purism indeed.

The full range - whites only, of course - is characterised by a complexity born of a marriage of fruity sweetness and fresh acidity. The ensuing power struggle can produce some sublime results. During the past four years the estate has made only sparkling wines, owing to poor weather conditions. At 6 bar pressure in the bottle, those termed 'mousseux' have twice the fizz of a 'pétillant'. Tasting begins with a 1999, a perfect example of the latter, and ideal as an apéritif. We move on to a 2000 Domaine de Haut-Lieu Sec, which contradicts the anticipated bone-dryness with a surprising bouquet, plus a generous fruitiness. It's a fitting accompaniment to grilled fish, seafood, fromage de chêvre, etc. - a classic Vouvray sec, in fact. Monsier Pinguet would have it no other way, seeing his task as simply striving to allow the essential personality of the appellation to express itself in his wines. It's an honourable philosophy.

We pass on to a 2001 Demi-Sec - another Vouvray archetype with a fruity freshness, making it an ideal partner for chicken, duck, pork, etc. or fish in a sauce. There's also sufficient balance and complexity to make this one to enjoy just by itself, contrary to popular belief (M Pinguet suspects that some potential buyers view the term 'Demi-' as implying a degree of compromise, which could not be further from the truth).

Now it's the turn of the sweet, or 'moelleux' wines, which require sustained good growing conditions, including dry weather during the critical time of picking. Suffice it to say that none has been produced on the estate since 1997 (fingers crossed for a more sympa 2002). We begin with a 1995, of characteristic golden hue and a rich, dried apricot aroma. A 1996, with twice the residual sugar of its predecessor, is even deeper gold. The really remarkable quality for me, though, is the way in which it arrives with a fruity sweetness, yet finishes with an unexpected hint of fresh acidity. The moelleux serve as an apéritif, a fine accompaniment to Oriental cuisine and is at home with cheeses such as Comté, Roquefort or a mature Gruyère.

Finally comes a 1990. This testament to the powers of Chenin-Blanc (aided by botrytis or 'noble rot') is a revelation, bursting with caramelised orange, apricot, lime and more. It's a fitting climax to my brief, but hugely enjoyable introduction to the sensationally broad repertoire of the Chenin Blanc in Vouvray. All they say (and more) is true.

© Words and pictures Roger Moss
This feature first appeared in everything France magazine Issue 7

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